Balsaminaceae (Balsamináceae) are a family of herbaceous plants and shrubs native to the tropics.
Representatives of Impatiens (Latin “touch-me-not”), which is one of two genera included in the family, are grown in an apartment.
It is these capricious beauties that every now and then upset flower growers with yellowing foliage. In case of detection of pests in "Vanka", it is necessary to accurately identify them and select a suitable insecticidal agent. Why is this happening and how to deal with an unpleasant phenomenon?
Features of the foliage of the indoor plant Vanka wet
Openwork balsam leaves have a fleshy consistency due to the water stored in them. With a sharp increase in atmospheric humidity, the plant emits droplets similar to sugary syrup, located on the veins of the foliage. This process is called guttation and occurs due to the work of special stomata present in the leaf structure and called hydatodes.
In some cases, the process of yellowing of foliage in "Vanka wet" can be associated with the natural renewal of the vegetative part of the plant. In this case, the phenomenon is focal in nature and quickly stops by itself. If the balsam began to turn yellow rapidly and profusely, you should start looking for the source of the problem.
Difficulties can arise when growing balsam. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following materials to help solve the most common problems:
- Why does indoor balsam not bloom and what to do? Advice on care and cultivation.
- Why do balsam buds and flowers fall and how to stop it? Preventive measures.
What are the reasons for yellowing, why do they fall off, wither?
The reason for the yellowing of the leaves of "Vanka wet" can be:
- Low air humidity. Especially at the height of the heating season or in the summer heat.
- Improper watering. Balsam will not tolerate either overdrying of the soil or stagnation of moisture in the pot.
- Lack of timely transplantation and fertilization.
- Sunburn. With prolonged exposure to direct sunlight on the balsam leaves, they begin to dry out, turn yellow and fall off (read about why balsam leaves fall and get sick and how to save a flower, read here).
- The appearance of pests. If all conditions of detention are observed correctly, and the foliage still turns yellow, you should carefully check the plant for the presence of pests (spider mites, aphids, thrips, whiteflies).
- Diseases of balsam (gray rot or powdery mildew).
Attention! You should not transplant balsam into a pot that is too spacious, since the roots of the plant will not be able to completely absorb the moisture that comes with watering and will rot.
What to do and how to restore the flora?
Help for yellowing balsam is provided based on the identified cause.
Low air humidity
If the plant suffers from dry air, it must be rearranged away from heating appliances. and establish regular spraying with clean, settled water.
If the earthen lump with roots has been overdried, it is necessary to place the pot with the plant in a container with warm, well-settled water and leave there for 30-40 minutes. Poured in this way, "Vanka wet" can be placed under the bag for 12 hours for more effective recovery.
If the plant has been poured, remove it from the pot. together with an earthen lump and carefully examine the roots for rot.
- If decay of the root system is detected, it must be carefully cleaned of soil and removed all affected areas with sharp scissors or a knife.
- After the procedure, balsam should be transplanted into fresh soil, after washing and scalding the old pot with boiling water or replacing it with a new one.
For better survival of the root system, it is recommended to treat it with a specialized compound to stimulate growth (for example, “Kornevin”).
Transplant and feeding
If the reason for the yellowing of the foliage is “poor” soil, it is recommended to feed the balsam with a specialized fertilizer. Both complexes for flowering indoor plants and specially designed for balsamic formulations are suitable. Before fertilizing the soil, it must be well shed with clean water. room temperature to avoid possible scalding of the roots.
If the plant is cramped in the old pot, it should be transferred into a larger container, which does not exceed the volume of the previous one by more than 1.2 times.
Important: the flowerpot chosen for transplantation should not be too high, since the roots of the balsam grow more in breadth than in depth.
It is categorically not recommended to completely remove the old soil: this can cause serious stress to the root system of the plant. You should shake the flower slightly to clean it of excess soil, and in the process of transplanting, add the required amount of fresh soil to the pot. Sandy loam soil enriched with vermiculite will be optimal for transplanting, but universal soil diluted with vermiculite in a ratio of 1:10 is also suitable.
It will no longer be possible to cure the leaves burned by the direct rays of the sun, so they should be removed, thereby making it easier to feed the surviving parts of the plant. To avoid the appearance of new burns, the balsam must be rearranged to the west or east window. If the plant cannot be moved, it should be shaded at noon.
Pests and diseases
If pests are detected in "Vanka", it is necessary to accurately identify them and select a suitable insecticidal agent (you can find out about what diseases and pests threaten balsam and how to deal with them here). Traditional methods (a solution of laundry soap, garlic, tobacco infusion, etc.) can save balsam only in the early stages of infection. In cases where the pest colony was not noticed in time and managed to grow, it is necessary to use potent drugs of narrowly targeted action.
In addition to pests, balsamic ones can be affected by diseases such as powdery mildew and gray rot. In this case, you should reduce the amount of watering and spraying and immediately treat the plant with a specialized remedy for the existing disease.
After taking all the basic measures, spraying with Epin or Zicron solution will help to reduce the stress experienced by the plant.
The best measure to prevent yellowing of balsam leaves will be the deliberate observance of the basic rules of maintenance:
- In the room where the balsam stands, the humidity and air temperature that are optimal for its cultivation should be maintained. Ideally, if you manage to provide the plant with seasonality, reaching 25 ° C in summer and about 10 ° C in winter. During the rest period, spraying should be stopped to avoid the development of fungal diseases.
- It is necessary to regularly feed the plant during the active growing season.
- Transplanting should be done by transferring to a larger pot. This procedure is best done in spring or early summer.
- The intensity and regularity of watering should correspond to the principle of "golden mean" and be calculated empirically.
- Balsam should be hidden from the midday rays of the sun by placing it on the western or eastern windows. It is permissible to place the plant on the southern windowsill, but on condition that it is shaded at noon.
If all else fails
Balsam is a whimsical plant, so it is not worth starting its state by postponing “resuscitation” until the last moment.
If the plant turns yellow and discards all or almost all of the leaves and none of the above measures helped, you need:
- Remove all dead areas from it (including rotten or dried roots).
- Spray the ground part with a growth stimulant and place the pot in the greenhouse, providing regular ventilation.
If these actions do not give positive results, the plant can be safely thrown away. All growers learn from mistakes and, having dealt with the intricacies of growing "Vanka wet" in this sad example, you will certainly cope with his newly acquired relative.